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Most people fancy the idea of a
narrowboat holiday but, perhaps
apprehensive about all
the palaver of locks, tillers and
windlasses, never get round to taking
one.
Well, I can happily report that there’s absolutely
nothing to be apprehensive about. This is based
on the fact that over the space of our four days
afloat no one drowned, we didn’t crash into
anything (too seriously) and we didn’t sink.
Nor, I should point out, did we offend any of the
seasoned veterans who live on the waterways
with our bumbling inexperience – well, there was
that oneman shouting at us from a bridge as we
frantically tried to avoid bumping into some
moored vessels. He may well have just been
offering his assistance but we couldn’tmake out
what he was saying over the roar of the engine
and because we were already shouting at each
other on the boat.
Our narrow boat was supplied by Anglo-Welsh
Waterway Holidays, part of a consortium of
inland waterways holiday providers going under
the name of Drifters who provide waterways
holidays the length and breadth of Britain.
Anglo-Welsh operate from nine bases that stretch
from Cheshire as far south as Bath and like most
waterways holiday providers offer boats in
various sizes for as little or as long as you fancy.
The welcoming staff at the Anglo-Welsh office
strategically sited at Bunbury Locks in Cheshire
run through everything you need to know about
navigating the canals and locks, show you where
everything is on your craft and explain how it all
works. After that introduction you’re left to your
own devices. Surprisingly – especially when you
consider howmuch there is to remember –
there’s no special licence required to man the
tiller of a regular canal-going vessel.
The first hour piloting the narrow boat on your
own isn’t somuch a baptism of fire as a baptism
over a low heat.
The first thing to grasp is that there are no
handbrake turns or emergency stops here. If you
want the boat to turn or slow down it has to be
given a few minutes warning. It’s a little like the
delay between asking an eleven-year-old to do
something and them actually doing it.
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That’s not surprising, when you consider the size
of the craft. Between where the pilot sits at the
back, to the fore deck where the tools are stored,
our 58ft vessel comfortably accommodated a
double bedroom and wardrobe, bathroom, fully
fitted kitchen, dining area (which converts into
another double bed) and TV lounge.
Of course, the fact that you have to take your
time is the real attraction of this sort of holiday.
Nomatter how adept you are at keeping up with
your fast moving and frantic day-to-day life at
home, those skills won’t get you anywhere here.
You have to slow down, take your time, get
methodical. If things go wrong you don’t gun
your motors to get out of trouble, you slip into
neutral, get the ropes out and use good old elbow
grease to solve the problem.
“Brute force and ignorance rarely solves
anything” one seasoned waterways dweller
observed after watching our attempt to forcibly
get the narrow boat into a lock while being
sucked sideways against the sill of the by-weir.
Slowing down is an important step in getting into
a holiday frame of mind, so just by getting on a
narrow boat you’re well on your way to getting
away from it all. You soon start to appreciate the
simpler pleasures of life and it gets to be a
pleasantly meditative experience cruising gently
along a meandering stretch of waterway, birds
twittering in the hedgerows, cows chewing
blankly on rolling green pastures, the engine
chugging reassuringly beneath your feet.
That’s the pace we settled into as we headed from
Bunbury up to Barbridge Junction. There we
moored by the Barbridge Inn, savouring a few
pints of Old Peculier before retiring to our boat
for a good night’s sleep.
The following morning we turned right onto the
Llangollen canal at Hurleston Junction. Here you
are immediately met with four daunting locks
that’ll lift your boat over 34ft. Fortunately there’s
also the welcoming sight of a lock keeper, whose
friendly help and cautionary tales of small
children being clocked on the nose by flying
windlasses are greatly appreciated as you put
into practice what you learned the day before,
heaving the mighty wooden gates open and shut,
raising and lowering the ‘paddles’, blasting the
huge quantities of water into and out of the locks.
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Then we were on our own negotiating the next
five locks ourselves as wemade gentle progress
to the picturesqueWrenbury. Here, by the canal
wharf, old mills and pub, you get out your British
Waterways keys (a vital piece of equipment that
opens up all sorts of useful things like water tap
boxes) and operate the electrified bridge,
simultaneously activating warning sirens and
closing the road to traffic until you’ve made your
way through. After all the gentle cruising it’s
almost unbearably exciting.
Once you’re through you’ll find the friendly
Cotton Arms pub is well prepared for hungry
boaters with food on offer all day (and that all
important selection of real ale).
From Wrenbury it was up the winding point
(pronounced the same way as making a baby
burp) where there is a section of canal broad
enough to do a U-turn.We slowly turned the
narrow boat round.
If we had had the time (probably a fortnight) we
would have carried on upstream, up six more
locks to a long lock-free stretch that leads to the
frankly terrifying Pontcysyllte Aqueduct that
carries your boat 120ft over a precipitous drop to
the River Dee before your final approach to
Llangollen. Maybe next year!
This time, though, it was a gentle return to
Bunbury for us. Now adjusted to the different
pace we allowed ourselves plenty of time. Suffice
to say, we were a little late back.
Of course, it wasn’t a big problem – there’s little
on the waterways that is. If you do get in to
difficulty the chances are you’ll meet some nice
people as a result, get some good advice and,
more often than not, a helping pair of hands. One
lock keeper was unperturbed by our blatant
attempt to destroy his wall. “It’s a contact sport,”
he ruminated.
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