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 PETER CANN steers a leisurely path along the waterways to Worcester - Messin' about on the river A leisurely time takes on real meaning on the waterways. When navigating a narrowboat, the pleasure is in enjoying the walking pace of your journey. Even at full throttle, the boat can just edge ahead of a walker on the towpath. A break on the UK's waterways is the perfect antidote to a hectic life. And the best time, as my partner and I experienced, is not during the summer but out of season. Our four-days on the Worcester and Birmingham Canal in early October began at the boatyard in Stoke Prior, just south of the old Worcestershire market town of Bromsgrove in the heart of England. With some 26 boats, a new fleet, the yard is one of the biggest on this stretch of the canal network. Our boat, named Alice, was a 58ft floating hotel. As well as being able to sleep four comfortably on double beds, this narrowboat seemed anything but narrow, with central heating, carpeting throughout, and the kitchen, bathroom and lounge fully equipped. After a quick run-through by one of the yard staff on the workings of the boat, we were off—straight into our first lock. Although we had had some faste of navigating a narrowboat before, a 72-footer, in fact, this was our first real test. Did I say test? No problem. And we were soon heading south to Worcester, just ten miles away — ten minutes on the M5 but a day or more by canal. Soon we were leaving the industrial estates on the banks of the canal behind us and heading through the rolling countryside, with high clumps of sedge bordering the waterway, on a sunny, autumn afternoon. My partner left the steering to me while she worked the locks. On the canals, the locks tend to be manually operated and can be hard work, especially opening the paddles controlling the flow of water. By the time we had navigated the first flight of six locks, we were getting into a rhythm, helped along, of course, by a pint of real ale. Being the autumn, it was quiet and there was just the odd boat waiting its turn at the lock, and a chance for a friendly chat to fellow travellers. And just in case you were thinking I was having all the fun steering, my partner took a turn at the tiller too. The yard had supplied a map with useful recommendations for overnight stops. It is not a good idea to ply the canal too late in the day — in October the light fades fairly quickly, making navigation a little tricky, and those all-important moorings are soon taken up. Reminders of the heyday of the canals are still very much in evidence — the 236-yard Dunhampstead Tunnel, though small in comparison with many tunnels, and the remains of the old Cadbury wharf as you enter Worcester. The entry into the cathedral city was surprisingly rural in character but by then the sunshine had given way to blustery winds and rain. But this was no second Battle of Worcester — we were undaunted by the inclement weather and carried on our merry way. The other benefit of travelling out of season became clear. In peak season, finding a mooring can be difficult but, having filled up with the necessary supply of water, we found a place for the evening easily. Of course, a visit to the cathedral was a must and we arrived to hear evensong echoing through the vaults of this imposing place that has experienced more than a thousand years of worship. But another tradition was soon to beckon, however — a cosy hostelry opposite. |
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