Waterways of Secrets
Float off on canal crash course
Jon Barnsley and David Gordois

Drifting at a snail's pace on a country canal, leisurely sipping a cocktail in the evening sun while dinner cooks and then, KER-RUNCH! We've collided with the river bank. Again! But no one panics. Well, not much, because learning to steer (arid failing hilariously) are all part of the charm of a narrowboat holiday.

There are 2,000 miles of waterways in Britain, twisting and turning through stunning, secret landscapes and Victorian city backwaters that we rarely see from such a duck's eye view.

Hiring a narrowboat to cruise this fascinating 200-year-old transport system makes for an enormously enjoyable holiday, whether you're an expert at the tiller or don't know your aft from your elbow. We nervously boarded the brand-new, 62-foot boat that was to be our home at the picturesque side of a lock in Stoke Prior, near Bromsgrove, Worcs, and were immediately impressed. Two double cabins and one twin, a well-equipped kitchen, shower, loos, and a comfortable dining area that boasted a TV. Some boats even have baths and can sleep up to 10 people. We were shown the ropes and, despite our initial nerves, it was all pretty straightforward . . . even when we had to tackle our first lock. There are hundreds of these, sometimes coming in flights of up to a dozen when the canal has to negotiate a steep hill, but we found that once we'd got the knack, (and it can   be an energetic business) we were competing to have a go. Two of us would hop onto the towpath to tackle the lock gates while another steered and the rest lay basking in the sun shouting helpful (and not so helpful) suggestions. Or, with no locks for miles, you're forced to relax at a sedate 4mph, sunbathing, snoozing or just watching the world go by.

If you're more inclined to go clubbing than pubbing, you can choose canals that pass through cities. Some routes take in Birmingham and Worcester, as well as the stunning countrysides of the. River Severn and Avon. Everyone you meet is friendly and willing to chat or help with a rope, especially the other boaters, who include families, retired couples, groups of friends and even, in one case, a gang of girls on a hen weekend. If the weather's bad, no problem (except for whoever's drawn the short straw and is steering). You just batten down the hatches. 

At night we'd moor near a likely-looking pub or tie up in a quiet spot for some stargazing (and a few bottles of wine) followed by breakfast on  deck, with ducks and swans vying for the remains of our toast.