BRITAIN'S BACK DOOR - BARRY REYNOLDS

RATTY had it right when he said: "There is nothing - absolutely nothing - half so much worth doing as simply messing about in boats." And Britain's canals are living proof of that. What started as the motorways of the 17th century have found a new use as a haven for those weary of the fast life. That's not to say that there aren't plenty of people who make the canals their business -boatyards and hire firms, craftspeople, the occasional carrier. But what sets them apart is the pace of life and their willingness to stop and taIk and share their experiences with the passing traveller. No matter where you are on the canal system there is always someone offering help with locks, advising on decent moorings, or - and this is one of the most important things the traveller needs to know the whereabouts of the pubs that serve good beer and food. The canals provide a way of looking at Britain that road transport just cannot compete with. It is not just that you travel at about 4mph - to avoid the wake damaging the banks - and are able to see everything in sharp focus rather than the narrow blur you see from a car, but by their very nature they are closer to... well.., nature. As you travel through the open countryside or through the numerous cuttings, even novices start to relax. At times it can seem eerie, lowly floating slowly through overhanging trees as if you were in some primeval forest. All you hear is the slow chugging of the engine, the rustle of the wind in the trees and the birdlife. Yet all around, out of view, there could be roads and houses and factories.

Lindy Foster Weinreb, is one of the great canal enthusiasts, who lives right on the bank of the Grand Union Canal at Berkhamsted. "The charm of the British canal system is that it has changed little in two centuries apart from nature's mellowing. The locks, bridges, well-wornsteps and tunnels are there for you to explore." And compared to those who used to ply their trade on the canals until the late 1960s, the modern narrowboat is luxury. Not the luxury of a hotel or cruise ship, certainly, but you soon learn how to make the most of what is offered. The kitchens are small but well-equipped and the bathrooms are much better an some hotels I have stayed in. The gaily painted boats are still constructed to the same external design, but now they boast comfortable beds, cosy state rooms, showers. fridges, central heating, in fact everything needed for a comfortable holiday," Lindy says "They are not an interior designer's dream, nor are they fitted with priceless antiques, the beds are narrower than you would expect at home, but they offer the comfort you need to make this incredible voyage of discovery. The boats are less than seven feet wide so that they are narrow enough to fit into the Victorian lock system, giving you passage to every corner of back-door Britain."

But for all of this you are going to have to do some work because, of course, there are the locks. While they hold a certain terror for the newcomer, once you've opened 10 or 12 in a day, it is not long before you are offering advice to others.

As Lindy says: "Each lock is a precious piece of our industrial heritage."

You cannot but admire the elegance of their design - the fact that no one has come up with a better way of getting water craft up and down hills is a testament to the engineering of the early canal builders.

There are 2,000 miles of canals in Britain, linking all the major cities - some even link rivers, which is another skill you will acquire along the way.
If at any time you're unsure about anything, just moor up next to one of the numerous canal-side pubs, relax and wait for someone who looks like an expert to arive. They'll only be too willing to help over a pint or two.