AVE you seen the recent advert for the mobile phone firm 02 in which three barges chug slowly across an aqueduct, with the names Cuthbert, Dibble and Grubb rising from each?
Well, trivia fans, that's the world famous Pontcysyllte Aqueduct on the Llangollen Canal, just inside North Wales. It opened in 1805 after 10 years of construction and is also known as the Stream in the Sky.
At a beautiful! 127ft high — more about — that in a moment — it's a testament to the genius of Britain's Industrial Revolution engineers and offers those crossing it, either by foot or narrowboat, some absolutely breathtaking views of the Dee Valley.
In case you're not sure, the aqueduct is basically a bridge for boats... it carries a canal, instead of a road, across Ihe valley
Of course, if you're on it you don't actually gel to see it from its best side — down below — where you can take in a stunning view of its massive arches rising majestically from the valley floor.
Bit of a shame that as my partner Amina and ! found ourselves crossing the aqueduct in a boat, marvelling at its height and the scenery but having no time to actually get down there to have a proper look. I said we were marvelling at the height Well, Amina was marvelling, whereas 1 was trying to marvel but finding it a bit difficult, what with vertigo kicking in, putting my stomach in my mouth and encouraging its contents to make an appearance.
On one side of the aqueduct is a path with a nice safe-looking metal fence. This is where the horses used to walk while pulling the old freight barges of the past.
The rest of the aqueduct is, however, essentially a cast-iron trough, the sides of which don't even reach the height of your barge deck.
So, as you sit at the back trying to steer without bumping the sides, all that greets you on one side is about two feel of your barge deck followed by that 127ft drop!
1 did manage to get across — albeit with soaking palms and almost translucent knuckles — and felt proud that I'd been brave enough not to leap inside the cabin and bury my head under a pillow. 1 never imagined that I'd have such a hair-raising experience on what I thought were Britain's tranquil waterways . . . especially as the rest of the Journey was almost exactly that. | We were on a short break with Black Prince Holidays, which offers holidays afloat all over the UK canal network.
As our starting point we chose the company's Chirk basin, which is half an hour south of Chester and literally on the Welsh-English border.
The Llangollen Canal — Britain's most beautiful, 1 was informed — connects with most of the main waterways of England, and Black Prince offers jaunts that last long enough for you to explore some of these treasures.
But we only had the boat for three days, so time wasn't on our side. These enormous iron vessels aren't made for speed and that, coupled with the daylight-sailing- only restriction—very wise— means you can't get very far in that time. We opted to take a leisurely cruise to the picturesque town of Llangotlen at the' end' of the canal a few miles away, so that we could return the boat in time.
This friendly little place straddles the river in the Dee valley, and is surrounded by the imposing foothills of Snowdonia.
The town is divided by a sturdy old stone bridge from where you can watch steam trains as they roll into the station on the river bank. If you'd like to change your mode of transport for a while, return fares on these old locos start at just £3.
Each year around July, the town hosts the acclaimed Llangollen International Musical Eisteddfod, which sees singers and performers converge to compete in a festival of sound. You can bet that the canals are pretty busy at this time too.
When we were visiting it was early October and the canal was thankfully fairly empty... aside from all manner of ducks and geese hassling you for your food.
We had been toid that in high season, between June and August, there are so many boats on the water that you can find yourself almost stuck in a constant convoy.
Not the stuff of relaxation, more like a recipe for canal rage, if you ask me. And you should, because I found myself getting a bit over-heated and muttering under my breath when we got stuck behind a Sunday sailor who was oblivious to the notion of getting a bloody move on!
I don't think 1 could be happy without a bit of room ahead of my narrowboat. A sense of freedom is, after all, what most people want from a canal holiday.
Patience and courtesy are paramount. though, as there are countless tunnels, locks and aqueducts which you must wait your turn to use. | And that's part of the fun of the canals. You get a sense of being in a different world, a select place for those in the know. And the little rules and ways of the canal are an integral part of that experience.
You'll be offered all sorts of advice from different people wtlh wildly varying degrees "f expertise, for example: 'Stop winging and wanging it in and out of gear and just take it steady."
This basically means that at the end of the day you have to find out for yourself.
One young barge novice said jokingly, after he'd helped pull us off a sandbank, that you spend most of the time in a blind panic, which isn't too far from the truth.
But steering a narrowboat is hardly rocket science, and is a quickly learned skill for the willing.
I'd guess that more arnd more novices out on those canals at any given time than seasoned Captain Birdseyes, so you shouldn't worry about making an utter fool erf yourself while having to negotiate a hairpin turn into a five-foot-wide tunnel... everyone's buggered it up at one time or another!
Steering the boat with the tiller at the back can be quite tiring, and the longer trips usually involve a good six to eight hours' travelling a day, so I'd recommend a bigger crew than two so you can share the shoulder-sapping task.
Another thing to consider is the locks that you'll encounter —131 in all on the Four Counties ring — which can be hard work if there are only two of you, though still great fun.
Black Prince offers a range of comfortable canal boats which can accommodate up to 10 people, and its staff can give you a basic lesson in the operalion and handling of your vessel before you leave the base.
Britain's canals have been enjoying a major revival in recent years, with major restoration projects breathing new life into waterways all over the country.
Probably the most impressive of these projects is the building of the 115ft-high Falkiric Wheel, a unique engineering masterpiece joining the Forth and Clyde Canal and the Union Canal.
Bearing in mind this renaissance, and the relative cheapness of narrowboat holidays if you share costs between a large group, 1 would thoroughly recommend that you get together with friends and family and get out on the canals as soon as you can. I guarantee that you'll love it. | IN a few weeks, chances are you'll be fed up with Christmas TV and leftovers, feeling as stuffed as the turkey, and the kids will already bored with their new toys and driving you crazy.
If so, take a stroll to your nearest waterside walk, and you might just rediscover your zest for the seasonal festivities . . . and even win a great canal break from Drifters Waterway Holidays.
A crisp, bright December afternoon is alf you should need to entice you out of thearmchair and onto the towpath or riverside walkway.
You can find lots of information about waterside walks and other ways to enjoy Britain's waterways at the website www.waterscape.com You'll get fresh air, exercise and history ... and after the Christmas indulgences that is just what you and your family will need to blow away the cobwebs.
When you get back have a go at this Drifters competition. There are two free holidays up for grabs, and every entry, wins a prize.
To enter, first of all answer the following questions (this part of the competition can be completed by all members of the family): 1. Why would you enjoy a waterway holiday? 2. After walking along your nearest waterway, what did you enjoy most? Then attach to your quiz answers a drawing or photo of, or a poem or piece of writing about, something you saw on your Yuletide waterway walk.
As many members of the familyas you like can add their contribution to this part of the competition.
The entries should be clearly marked with your name, address, email address — if you have one — plus your age-group category (A: 4-11, B: 12-18, C: adult).
Send your entries to Drifters Waterway Holidays Christmas Quiz, PO Box 232, Worcester, WR1 2SD, to arrive by January 17, 2005.
Every family who sends in entries will receive a canal information pack, a two-for-one admission voucher to visit one of The Waterways Trust's museums, and a discount voucher to be used against a Drifters canal holiday.
These discount vouchers will give you £250 off a two-week holiday, £100 off a one-week holiday, or £50 off a short break or Hotel Boat holiday. They cannot be used in conjunction with any other offers.
In addition, the two best entries will receive a free short break on a Drifters canal boat.
To find out more about Drifters canal holidays visit http://www.drifters.co.uk |
FIVE THINGS TO DO ON A CANAL HOLIDAY If you can, cross the Pontcysyllte Aqueduct. READ The Boaters' Handbook, published by British Waterways and the Environment Agency. It is essential for safety on the water and is your guide to operating those tricky locks and bridges. DO try to be courteous and patient with other canal users. This is supposed to be a stress-free holiday! If you decide on a different starting point than Chirk, try Black Prince's Falkirk base and see the amazing Falkirk Wheel LET everyone in your holiday party have a go at steering. It's not easy but when you finally get it right it's like when you first rode a bike . . . truly exhilarating. | FACTFILE Chris and Amina took a three-day narrowboat break courtesy of Black Prince Holidays, which has six bases across the UK and offers hlidays starting at £59 per person. For more information visit
www.black-prince.com or call
01527 575115 CHIRK is 30 minutes south of Chester and to get there by train from Newcastle, Chris and Amina travelled courtesy of GNER from Newcastle to York, then courtesy of TranspPennine Express to Manchester, then courtesy of Arriva Trains Wales to Chirl via Chester. For further information or to book tickets visit the web sites www.gner.co.uk , www.firstgroup.com/tpexpress or www.arrivatrainswales.co.uk |
